Every neighborhood in Omaha.

The Old Market is the brick warehouse district where Omaha's produce trade gave way to galleries, dining rooms, and late nights. Howard, Jackson, and Jones still run the length of it, and the Passageway still cuts between the blocks. Walk it hungry. Le Bouillon holds a French dining room and a wine shop on Howard, The Berry and Rye pours a few doors west, and Jackson Street has Ted & Wally's and Brickway. Upstream has been brewing on 11th Street since the 1990s, and M's Pub is open again at 422 South 11th after the fire. Evenings fill the sidewalks. Cobblestones, iron fronts, and rooms that were built for crates now set tables.

Underwood Avenue is Dundee's front porch: a few tight blocks of independent kitchens between streetcar-era houses. The neighborhood was platted in the 1880s as one of Omaha's first suburbs, and the porches, brick, and trees still do as much work as the restaurants. This stroll stays on Underwood, from a nonprofit dining room through coffee, ice cream, a century-old pub, handmade pasta, and coal-fired pizza. Elmwood Park is a beautiful walk of its own, south of Dodge Street, on the far side of the historic neighborhood line. Dundee rewards a slow afternoon. Order something, walk half a block, and order something else.

Benson is Maple Street after dark: neon, murals, and rooms that book the bands the rest of the city hears about a week later. The Waiting Room and Reverb Lounge sit near Military Avenue, and First Friday turns the storefronts into a street party. By day the same blocks pour coffee, serve ice cream, and open a brewery you can see from the sidewalk. Benson was its own town until Omaha annexed it in 1917, and the commercial strip still has a main-street shape. Come for a show. The next door is usually worth opening too.

Blackstone packs a dining street into a few blocks of Farnam, in the shadow of the old Blackstone Hotel. A Reuben came out of that hotel kitchen in 1925. The building is a Kimpton now, and Crescent Moon still serves a version of the sandwich down the street. Between them: Noli's pizza, Archetype coffee, Scriptown's brewery, Nite Owl's cocktails, and Mula. The blocks are short enough to park once and walk every reservation. Farnam here is the neighborhood. The hotel, the patios, and the brick do the rest.

Aksarben is Nebraska spelled backward, and the village sits on the grounds of the old Ak-Sar-Ben racetrack, which ran from 1919 until 1995. Stinson Park and Baxter Arena, home ice and home court for the UNO Mavericks, now hold the middle of the site. South 67th Street is the part you walk: a coffeehouse, the Inner Rail food hall, Herbe Sainte, Saffron, a taphouse, Voodoo Taco, and a patisserie. The lawn fills for concerts. The arena fills for games. Come for either one, then lap the village for dinner.

The Capitol District is a tight plaza of hotels and restaurants just north of the Old Market, built around a lawn and a very large video board. CHI Health Center is the next block, which is why the sidewalks fill before tipoff and first pitch. Four locally run doors make the loop: Época Cantina, The Stuffed Olive, Annie's Irish Pub, and Society 1854 inside the Marriott. Stand under the board, then pick a patio. The whole thing is a few minutes across. The crowd is the show.

Downtown's riverfront is the rebuilt Gene Leahy Mall and the parks that step down to the Missouri. The Holland and the Orpheum are a few blocks inland when there is a ticket. The Bob Kerrey Pedestrian Bridge crosses to Iowa at the end of the lawn. This walk starts at Kitchen Table on Farnam, crosses the mall, stops at Lula B's on Dodge, and finishes on the bridge. The Old Market's cobblestones begin on the next block and have their own loop. Go when the light drops. The lawn and the river do the rest.

Elkhorn was its own town on the western edge until Omaha absorbed it, and the old center around 204th Street still behaves like one. Newer subdivisions spread out from it in every direction. This loop stays in that center: breakfast at Time to Rise and Shine, coffee at Uptown Java, then Maximino's, Boyd & Charlies, Bella Vita, and a pint at Jukes Ale Works. The doors sit on the same few corners. It is a small-town evening inside a large city. Park once.

Florence is the oldest part of Omaha, up on the river bluff where Mormon pioneers wintered in 1846. The bank building went up in 1856. The mill still stands on North 30th Street. The neighborhood never really stopped being a small town at the top of the map. The walk links the Mormon Trail Center, Harold's Koffee House, the Bank of Florence, Zesto, and the Florence Mill. The landmarks are open to visitors. The diner and the ice cream counter are what make it a neighborhood. Give it a quiet morning. The buildings tell the story.

La Vista is a young Sarpy County city pressed against Omaha's south side, and City Centre is the part with a real sidewalk. The Astro Theater and its lawn are the civic stage. The blocks around 84th Street are where you eat. The stroll is local kitchens: Lina's, Thai Orchid, Dragon Cafe, El Vallarta, and Wild Chicken Grill. Come for a show at the Astro, then walk to dinner. The district is compact. One parking spot covers the avenue.

Little Bohemia is South 13th Street, the old Czech commercial row south of downtown. The brick is older than the current tenants: a kitchen, a fountain shop, a tiny bar, a beer garden, and Lumen Beer Co. The storefronts sit close enough to compare. Vinton Street's taquerias are a real part of the wider south side, a long walk south of this strip, so this loop stays on 13th. It is a maker's block more than a museum. Order something and keep moving.

Little Italy is the short run of South 10th Street and Pacific Street just south of downtown, where bakeries and storefronts outlasted the work that brought the families here. Orsi's still bakes on Pacific. Sips on 10th, Via Farina, and Salerno's II hold the 10th Street row. Go early if you want bread that is still warm. The blocks are small, the windows are full, and the neighborhood still smells like a bakery in the morning.

Midtown Crossing wraps Turner Park with apartments, restaurants, and the Mutual of Omaha campus, which has held this ground since 1957. The mixed-use blocks arrived in phases after 2009. On summer Thursdays, Jazz on the Green fills the park. The walk stays inside the complex: a board-game cafe, wood-fired pizza, and a whiskey bar. Blackstone's Farnam strip is the next neighborhood west and has its own stroll. Show up for the music when the calendar says so. The park is the neighborhood's living room the rest of the week.

Millard was its own town, and it still has its own school district, which tells you how seriously the southwest side takes the name. The older avenue near 132nd is mostly national brands now. The walkable local cluster is a few blocks away, at 138th. Sgt. Peffer's, The Corner Kick, El Taco Loco, Addy's, Shirley's Diner, and Shandy's Bakery make a loop you can do between a game and a slice of cake. Call it the 138th stroll. It is the corner where Millard still eats close to home.

Millwork Commons is the warehouse district north of NoDo, where brick mill buildings became kitchens, offices, and small manufacturers. Nicholas Street and Millwork Avenue are the two spines. Dolomiti, Heirloom Fine Foods, and All in Thyme sit in that core. Bobo's Noodles is the south edge, just before the street becomes the Slowdown block. The buildings are the scenery. The food is the reason to stay. It is a short walk through a long history of reuse.

North Downtown grew up around the Saddle Creek Records block. Slowdown, Film Streams' Ruth Sokolof Theater, and the bars on North 14th share one stretch of Mike Fahey Street. Rally Coffee opens early at 749 North 14th, on this block. The walk is the sidewalk between a film, a coffee, and whatever is on the marquee. It is a short loop on purpose. The shows are the long part.

North Omaha's 24th Street corridor is a living cultural district: a jazz center, a history museum in the old Jewell Building, and family kitchens that have fed the neighborhood for decades. The Dreamland Ballroom's story lives in that building. The Great Plains Black History Museum tells the wider one, and it is open Wednesday through Saturday. This walk starts at Big Mama's on 30th Street, crosses to the museum and Love's Jazz & Arts Center on 24th, continues to CULXR House, and finishes at Time Out Foods, a 30th Street counter that has been family-owned since 1971. Go for the art and stay for a plate. The corridor is open, and it is still the neighborhood's main street.

Ralston is an independent city tucked inside Omaha, with its own main street, its own arena, and a Fourth of July the neighbors plan around. The arena is the big room. Main Street is the walk. Tradish(ish) holds the east end of the strip for dinner. Pause Coffee and Lemon Tree Cafe cover the middle of the avenue, and Maria's sits a short block south on Burlington. The four doors are a few minutes apart. Do the avenue in the afternoon. Save the arena for whatever is on the marquee.

South Omaha grew up beside the stockyards, and South 24th Street is still the kitchen. Mexican, Lao, and bakery cases sit in storefronts that have fed the neighborhood for generations. Johnny's Cafe, a block west on 27th, has been the steakhouse of that world for more than a century. The Henry Doorly Zoo and Lauritzen Gardens are east of here, toward the river, and they are worth a separate day. This stroll stays with the groceries, the bakeries, and the dining rooms on the 24th Street corridor. Order more than you planned. The counters are used to it.

West Omaha is where the city loosens up: longer drives, newer neighborhoods, and Zorinsky Lake off to the southwest. It is not one main street, so this walk picks the pocket that actually works on foot. 114th and Davenport holds a short row of independent rooms: the Green Onion Lounge, Stories Coffee, Fernando's, and Acadian Grille. Park once. The four doors are a few minutes apart. The rest of the west side is a drive. This corner is a neighborhood.

Bellevue is the oldest town in Nebraska, a river community that kept its own name as Omaha grew north of it. Offutt Air Force Base and the bluffs of Fontenelle Forest frame the city. Olde Towne, along Mission Avenue, is the part you can walk. The stroll is the local rooms on that avenue: Lighthouse Cafe, Old Town Tavern, Shug's, Luigi's, and Swine Dining. Mission Avenue still feels like a small-town main street. Give it an unhurried hour. The storefronts are close, and the river bluff is the backdrop.